Yellow Letters, Red Background

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Socialist Republic of Vietnam Forever!

President Ho Chi Minh’s greatness lives on in our career!

These are the phrases printed on giant banners that flank Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum in Hanoi, translated to English with Google Translate. Similar phrases — about the people, the land, responsibility, about the American War, and so on — fly on banners that cross many of the streets around our hotel. All of these words are printed in yellow letters … on a red background.

Patriotism is thick here … at least the *appearance* of patriotism is thick.

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This is the set of rules that are said to have governed the treatment and conduct of captured American soldiers and sailors held in Hanoi’s Hoa Lo prison during the Vietnam War. Senator John McCain and others were taken there … and it became known as the “Hanoi Hilton” to Americans.

Like a busy Hanoi street, these documents and city-wide banners — thick with patriotic one-sidedness — are difficult to navigate. As a result, we start to doubt people. Doubt colors our interactions with store owners, hotel clerks, taxi drivers, that man on the street. Truth is fuzzy. Clarity is muddled. Trust is tricky.

We travel soon to a new country, thick with an entirely new level of sidedness and apparent patriotism. Part of me is fascinated with what is to come. Part of me is wary.

One lesson from today to take with me in the days ahead:

The photos below were taken during our visit today to Hoa Lo prison. It’s worth noting that light … is what makes the darkness in the photos so beautiful.

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